In this episode of Grown in Napa Valley, Executive Director and host Caleb Mosley engages in two thought-provoking conversations that explore the present and future of Napa Valley's wine industry.
Kicking off with Jon Moramarco, managing partner of BW166 and a renowned expert in beverage alcohol trends. Jon shares his journey in the wine industry, insights into seismic shifts in global wine markets, and the challenges facing Napa Valley. Jon highlights the importance of innovation, smarter business practices, and the potential for Napa to explore new opportunities to remain a leader in the global wine industry. The episode continues with Paul Goldberg, 2024 Grower of the Year and vineyard manager at Bettinelli Vineyards. In this candid conversation, Paul reflects on his Napa upbringing, his journey into viticulture, and the evolution of vineyard practices over the past 50 years. Paul discusses the meticulous farming techniques Bettinelli employs to enhance phenolic development, the importance of adapting to changing market demands, and the opportunities to champion diverse grape varietals. He also shares the story of Sleeping Lady Vineyard and the 2019 Ad Vivum Cabernet Sauvignon he brought. Episode Highlights
"Napa is an anomaly. The rest of the country doesn’t live like we do here, and understanding that reality is key to shaping the future of the wine industry." - Jon Moramarco
"What was three or four passes through a vineyard in the 1970s has now grown into 10, 11, sometimes 12 passes—each one critical to achieving balance and quality." - Paul Goldberg "The global wine market has been oversupplied for 20 years. For Napa to thrive, it’s about being smarter, innovating, and working harder to stand out." - Jon Moramarco "When you actually walk a row with someone and explain how a vineyard is planted, trellised, and managed, it creates a level of appreciation that’s mind-blowing." - Paul Goldberg "If I can enjoy life with my wine every day, and it shortens my life by two months, I’d say that’s worth it." - Jon Moramarco
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As the 2024 harvest progresses, Napa Valley is witnessing a season marked by an early start, impressive grape quality, optimal weather conditions, and high labor availability. Despite these positives, growers are navigating significant challenges due to shifting market dynamics and economic pressures.
Exceptional Wine Quality Across Napa Valley, grape quality is turning out to be one of the highlights of the 2024 harvest. Growers are reporting excellent phenolic ripeness and balanced sugar levels, leading to ideal chemistry heading into the winery. The mild summer, punctuated by a brief but impactful Labor Day heat wave, accelerated the accumulation of sugars while allowing acids to develop steadily. As Matt Stornetta of Stornetta Made Farming explains, “the cooler weather is already helping the balance of sugars and acids.” The result is fruit that promises to produce complex, flavorful wines, which has already been reported as early fermentations yield their results. Many growers are optimistic that this year’s vintage will deliver standout wines, characterized by full flavor profiles and well-balanced structure. Weather Conditions Support Healthy Vineyard Development Weather has been a key factor in this year’s successful harvest. Unlike recent years marred by extreme heat or wildfires, 2024 has provided growers with near-ideal conditions for grape maturation. According to Chris D'Alo of Nord Vineyard Services, this season’s climate reminds him of 2018, another highly favorable vintage. Steady winter rainfall provided deep soil moisture and set the stage for strong canopies, resulting in yields well balanced with vegetative growth. July heat arrived while canopies still had access to adequate soil moisture, with most growers noting the cessation of shoot growth, along with a celebrated early end of their powdery mildew control programs. The persistent (and often reliable) heat over Labor Day did pose challenges for some vineyards, particularly in areas with shallower soil or with limited irrigation capacity. However, these effects have been isolated, and the majority of vineyards have bounced back, with D'Alo remaining optimistic: “The fruit flavor is excellent, and I do believe this vintage will produce some amazing wines.” Increased Labor Availability Eases Harvest Challenges A positive development this harvest season has been the increased availability of farmworkers, a significant change from the shortages experienced in recent years. Thanks to cooler weather, the pace of harvest has been moderate and steady, contributing to a smooth and efficient harvest. D'Alo notes that there are many eager workers available, which may shift needs away from H2-A supplemental crews come the 2025 harvest season. Navigating the complexities of an early harvest without the additional strain of labor shortages has allowed growers to meet the harvest requests of their winery partners, adding to the positive outlook for wine quality in 2024. Market Struggles Pose Challenges for Growers While the quality of the 2024 harvest is undeniable, the economic landscape remains challenging for many. The spot market for grapes has been difficult, with prices often failing to meet production costs. Stornetta notes that many conversations with winery partners have not resulted in deals, as unsold fruit remains an issue. As wineries pull back on production due to the evolving state of wine sales , the supply of grapes has outpaced demand, causing strain for growers statewide. D'Alo echoes this concern, noting that while this vintage will likely produce exceptional wines, fewer cases will be produced due to the current market conditions. Looking Ahead: Quality Amidst Market Challenges The 2024 harvest presents a complex picture: while the weather has provided nearly perfect conditions for grape development, and labor availability is at an all-time high, the economic struggles facing the industry cannot be ignored. Despite these market challenges, the promise of exceptional wines coupled with Napa Valley’s hard-earned pedigree of distinct wines recognized on the global stage provide an outlook marked by resilience and the ability to adapt. Napa Valley’s growers remain committed to producing world-class wines, and this year’s fruit holds the potential to create wines that will stand out in any collection. The grape growing industry is currently facing significant challenges. The market for wine grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, has become increasingly unstable, with spot market rates falling to levels that are difficult for many growers to sustain. Even those with contracts are finding it harder to secure favorable prices for their fruit. While the bulk wine market offers some support, it is also feeling the effects of this downturn.
This decline is reminiscent of the industry struggles in the 1980s when the grape-growing community faced similar economic pressures. During that time, high inflation and soaring interest rates, combined with an oversupply of grapes, created a challenging environment for growers. The economic recession of the early 1980s further reduced consumer spending on higher-priced wines, leading to a drop in grape prices and increased financial strain on vineyards. These conditions forced many growers to become more strategic and adaptive, much like the situation we find ourselves in today. In anticipation of these challenges, the Napa Valley Grapegrowers (NVG) established the "Grape Market Task Force" in March 2024 to proactively address the current market conditions and support our members. This task force is focused on preparing our industry for difficult times by offering resources, guidance, and strategic connections. Our initiatives include hosting webinars on market trends, investing in paid SEO for the Napa Winegrape Market, connecting members with fruit brokers to explore all possible sales avenues, and developing a white paper with guidelines for those considering not harvesting due to economic constraints. In these testing years, every grower must determine their "rock bottom" price—the minimum acceptable price for their grapes—before entering negotiations. While it may be tempting to turn to the bulk wine market, selling bulk wine may not yield better financial outcomes than selling grapes directly. For some growers, unfortunately, there will be no contract or viable options for selling their fruit, resulting in a significant loss for the year. As an organization, we remain committed to supporting our members through this period. We will continue to advocate for the protection of our agricultural lands and the economic sustainability of our vineyards, as these are foundational to the future of Napa Valley. The NVG will continue to take a proactive approach, doing everything possible to help our members navigate these challenging times. As history has shown, our community's resilience and unwavering commitment to excellence will see us through to brighter days ahead. Podcast Episode 2: Consumer Trends with Rebecca Hopkins & Glass with a Grower, Matt Stornetta5/10/2024
In this episode, wine industry expert Rebecca Hopkins, rebeccahopkinswine.com, delves into the latest trends in wine sales and consumer drinking habits, shedding light on the intricacies of the three-tier system and its inherent challenges. She underscores the significance of community, maintaining business focus, forging strong customer connections, and staying informed with trustworthy news to help growers navigate the evolving market.
In "Glass with a Grower," Matt Stornetta shares his journey in farming and the development of his company, Stornetta Made Farming. He shares a bottle of Trinitas Sauvignon Blanc as he provides insights on vineyard management practices and his experiences with the structure of vineyard leases and the associated risks. Episode Highlights
"Wine is maybe not necessarily the number one choice anymore. There's a demand for lower alcohol, fresher styles, and we're seeing growth in white wines like Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc." – Rebecca Hopkins
"We have this fulcrum of younger consumers interested in health, transparency, and authenticity, and they demand to know where their food, clothes, and wine come from." – Rebecca Hopkins "Leaning on community is crucial – knowing you're not alone and having a network you can rely on can make the challenges of this industry a bit easier." – Rebecca Hopkins "The market now really values vineyard stories. If you're a grower, bring buyers to your vineyard, show them why it’s special, and connect them to the story of your grapes." – Caleb Mosley "Starting a farming business in 2020 was daunting, but crop insurance and efficient practices have been key. Taking on deferred vineyards required viticultural and financial creativity, but it’s been rewarding." – Matt Stornetta Additional Resources |
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